These codes are
indicative of Catalytic Converter failure, and before you
get all involved in repairing your customers vehicle, you
need to do some
research on the
vehicle in question, such as what year, how old, and
how many miles on the vehicle, considering there is an
8 year, 80k miles
federal emission warranty on 1995 and
newer vehicles that cover certain emission components that
may be the source of the failure, the Catalyst
being one of them. The least you can do is diagnose why
the vehicle is setting the codes, and advise your customer
on a course of action.
GM Emission Warranty States as long as:
The vehicle has been maintained and
operated in accordance with the
instructions for proper maintenance and
use set forth in the owner manual supplied with your vehicle.
The vehicle fails an
EPA-approved I/M test during the
emission warranty period.
The failure results, or will result, in the owner of the vehicle having to bear a penalty or other
sanctions, including the denial of the right to use the vehicle, under local, state, or federal
law. GM warrants that your dealer
will replace,
repair, or adjust to GM specifications,
at no charge to you, any
of the parts listed under the Emission Warranty Parts List, which may be
necessary to conform to the applicable emission standards.
So, what are the main causes of the P0420-430
codes? Most often it is the converter that is
not doing the job it should be, and the way to
find out, is by looking
at the pre and post O2 sensors, the engine needs
to be brought to operating temp, once there, get
the rpm up around 2500 - 3000 rpm and hold it
there for about
5 minutes to make sure the O2's are up to
operating temp, after this run up, return the
engine to idle, and view the O2 values comparing
the pre and post readings,
the pre sensor should be switching from .1 to .9
volts crossing .450 volts at least 18 - 20 times
in 10 seconds, that's about normal, the post
sensor should remain
relatively flat lined about .3 - .5 volts, if it
appears to be following the pre sensor, that's
why the codes are setting, and, this would
indicate a bad catalytic convertor.
Before we go on with diagnostic procedures, I would like
to tell you a short story about a person who is
a caregiver for my disabled son. One morning,
she showed
up to be with my son, and knowing I was a
retired mechanic, she mentioned that her check
engine light was on (I know, I know, its now a
MIL, or malfunction indicator
light I still like check engine light to
customers, they understand that) anyway, I
still have my code reader, so I sauntered out
(LOL) to check it for her, the vehicle was
a 2006 Nissan Frontier
Pickup with 115k miles, after pulling the code
(P0420) I told her the bad news, it was most
likely a bad catalyst, after some thought, I
asked her
what fuel she was using, and she told me
whatever was cheap! After some more thought, I
told her next time she was to fill up, go put a
tank of chevron in it and drive
it til empty, then do it again, (I already
cleared her code) before the first tank was used
up, the check engine light came back on, it was
the same code, this time I left it
alone, and told her to keep driving it and fill
up again with chevron, after the second tank,
and about half way through the tank, her, and
her husband decided to take it
to the Nissan dealer, just before they pulled in
the driveway to the dealer, the check engine
light went out, they both looked at each other
in disbelief, and drove up to
the entrance and asked them to look at the
drivers window that had not worked for almost a
year, needless to say when she showed up the
next day, I got a big hug
and smack on the cheek. I was happy I did
something useful for some one even after I had
retired, they were certainly happy spending
money for something except
the convertor. Oh yeah, I did check the codes
again, the P0420 was now gone, evidently the
chevron cleaned up the catalyst enough to make
it start working again.
I've always ran chevron in my vehicles, since it
kept injectors so clean, but not in the Monte
Carlo, that I used Texaco premium since it had
9.5:1 compression.
To operate properly, catalytic converters need
an air/fuel mixture that alternates between rich
and lean. When the air/fuel mixture is rich, it
reduces the amount of
oxygen in the exhaust. This allows the catalyst
to break down NOX. But to burn HC and CO, the
catalyst needs more oxygen so the air/fuel
mixture has to go lean.
This allows the catalyst to momentarily absorb
oxygen and trigger a reaction that burns up the
HC and CO. The (PCM) flip-flops the air/fuel
mixture when the engine
is warm by monitoring the rich/lean signal from
the oxygen sensor in the exhaust. When the O2
sensor reads lean, the PCM makes the fuel
mixture go rich. When the
O2 sensor sends back a rich signal, the PCM
shortens the on-time of the fuel injectors and
leans the fuel mixture. The O2 sensor then send back
a lean signal, and
the PCM increases the on-time of the injectors
to make the fuel mixture rich again. By rapidly
changing the air/fuel mixture back and forth,
the overall mixture averages
out and keeps emissions at a minimum. On some
newer vehicles, a new type of "wideband" oxygen
sensor (also called an "air/fuel ratio" sensor)
is used. Instead of
producing a high or low voltage signal, the
signal changes in direct proportion to the
amount of oxygen in the exhaust. This provides a
more precise measurement.
A three way catalytic converter with high oxygen
storage capacity will indicate a low switching
frequency (flatlined) of the downstream heated
oxygen sensor. As oxygen
storage capacity decreases, the sensor switching
frequency will increase. When the frequency of
pre and post oxygen sensors approach a specified
limit value, the
catalyst is tested. A converter reduces
pollution through chemical reactions that
require fuel (from the unburnt gas in your
exhaust stream), heat (from your exhaust),
and oxygen. If these inputs aren't in balance,
the cat doesn't work well. When a car's engine
is misfiring, the overheating that results can
destroy the catalytic converter.
When a car is running too cold from a long
warm-up time, for example, let's say if the
thermostat is bad, the same thing can happen,
good-bye converter. Another way
a converter can die is from poisoning due to the
introduction of silicone into the exhaust. When
a car engine has a head gasket leak, even a
small one that doesn't make
the car overheat, the silicone from the coolant
can contaminate the converter and destroy it's
ability to operate, possibly, it may be cleaned
with chemicals and saved.
There are many different chemicals available,
cataclean, is one I can think of, and there are
many others, although if this is possible, two
applications will be needed.